Circuitbenders Forum
Circuitbenders Forum => Circuitbending discussion => Synths & Samplers => Topic started by: xorbelbeeb on September 24, 2009, 10:06:10 PM
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Hi there good folk,
I'm diving head first into the weird and exciting world of bending, but I'm having a hard time getting to the discovery stage since I can't keep the power on. I'm tooling with a Casio PT-88 which has a sliding power switch, so when I remove the top of the case the contact between the strips is lost. Anybody can help me with this?
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When I have something like this I usually tape a piece of solid core wire across the traces, that usually keeps it on. Make sure it's on there tight though or else it'll just keep turning off.
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This has been discussed about 20 times before. Just follow the circuitboard traces back from the on switch connections and when you come to solder points solder a bit of wire accross them so the connections that are made when you turn it on with the button are bridgedpermanently. You can always remove the wire when you want to close it up again.
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I tried dylan's suggestion to no avail, and I tried to solder directly to the traces, but it wouldn't stick. I'll follow the traces back and try like krustypaul said. Thanks for the input! :)
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The traces where the switch are often have a weird plasticky conductive coating similar to the one used for horrible rubber button keypads. The actual tracks on the board have a lacquer coat which you need to carefully scrape off before you can solder to them.
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I've been told scraping stuff off isn't necessary..
I tried attaching a croc clip from one point to another on a casio the other day, got the power going for a bit, then it powered off and never came alive again.
Also had the batteries sellotaped, which proved a bit tedious.
Casios and similar devices with these sliding switches and falling-out batteries are still not too easy for me, even though I've asked a few times and got some good advice.
Can anyone possibly make a clear demonstration video of cracking a casio?
That's worth a fair bit of karma I'd say.
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er... Gordon's spot on, a LOT (90%) of the time u just have to remove some form of coating to solder onto traces and that is the best way to keep the machine 'on' with a sliding switch, if u must use clips just solder some jumpers to the traces and clip to that...