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 1 
 on: October 11, 2021, 12:53:30 PM 
Started by Benoit G. - Last post by Benoit G.
Hello, here is my demo of a very simply circuit bent Yamaha MU15 with the very cool arpeggiator of the Novation Launchkey Mini MK3 :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3puDvMTIaaM

Enjoy !

 2 
 on: October 06, 2021, 01:05:19 AM 
Started by Circuitbenders - Last post by phlogister
This is how i did it, headphones output to the computer's microphone input, one channel. Well, better do it on cardboard and never more than two wires crossed. The resistors are 100 k and 150 ohms (a typical output resistance of a microphone), the capacitor is 0.47 uF (makes a high pass filter 3 Hz and up, to remove the microphone's power voltage). The sounds, rhythms and demos of the tlf-3215 toy keyboard recorded  https://sndup.net/8xjh . Likely also bf-430a1 and many others have the same chip. Only a noise removal was done. Headphones output was made out of its microphone input, with a 8 k resistance in series. Weirdly it also had a switch, that switches the keyboard's speakers off when headphones are connected. In case there is any use of it for anyone, thanks.



Not knowing that much about it, i would say, be very careful with headphones output. It is not line out that should correspond to some standards, though there are two standards, some 1 V and 0.5 V, something, and the computer line in i guess is the latter. I think 1/1000 voltage divider for microphone input is enough for low power devices. But otherwise, if it is just attenuated by one resistor, that's good enough for headphones, but may not be much for high resistance input. So i guess then one may better start from 1/10000 and even for line in from 1/100. In spite that 1/10 should mostly be enough from headphones output to line in. Who knows more, correct me please thanks.

 3 
 on: October 04, 2021, 07:59:05 PM 
Started by HUNTERG - Last post by HUNTERG
I have been working on some interesting project meaning Roland MGS-1 grip for famous SH101

If you wan to know how it went let me know and I present the whole story of creating it from scractch without having the original grip at hand.


 4 
 on: September 30, 2021, 01:39:08 PM 
Started by zorgitron - Last post by zorgitron
Hello all!
I have a pss 560 that I added a delay effector ( pt2399), and an input mixer to. It also could run off a usb phone charger backup battery. It was awesome! I could plug in a poly 800 and jam without an amp with nice synthy delay effects.

It suddenly started making a deep buzzing sound, and after a minute or so, stopped everything. Now, only the pilot turns on. You might say its "dead" or "bricked" I suppose.  But I'm a stubborn bastard and I want my cool jam station  back!

The 560 is nice since there are free schematics for it online. I used them to pinpoint where to run the signal into the delay circuit. Simply, it ran into the power amplifier, along with an input signal. The usb power was just a usb plug wired in the same way as the battery wires.

Im suspecting that a wire came loose and shorted something important.
t. Before it died, I played the keyboard and noticed the delay wasnt working, so maybe a wire dropped off. Then it started working again. Also it happened after I plugged in a 12v psu by mistake ( i had another pss next to it, mistaken identity)
Can anyone give me so pointers to trace the problem? I checked many of the big ICs amd they are still getting their 5v, but after that, not sure what to look for. Thank you and glad to finally join one of these groups !

 5 
 on: September 29, 2021, 02:35:39 PM 
Started by pr8qvgh3u - Last post by pr8qvgh3u
The keyboard section just has keyboard stuff, the screen section has the interesting stuff, but I can't get to it! There's two little red plugs/caps, one either side of the speaker/hinge area. I've got those out by drilling a hole through the centre and prising them out with a handy implement (a thin allen key, in my case).

So now I can slightly see inside the screen area, but there still seems to be a bunch of screws holding the screen area together, but I think their heads are under the plastic screen graphic/protector.     escorts incalls

Have seen a couple of bent ones around, anyone here successfully gotten into the thing without damaging the original look of the toy?

 6 
 on: September 21, 2021, 07:22:54 PM 
Started by Northernexpermentsinsound - Last post by Circuitbenders
The middle leg is ground, you need to use one of the outer legs to inject the LTC1799 signal. We usually use the one furthest from the front panel.

You can source +5v and ground from the voltage regulator. The middle regulator pin is ground.

 7 
 on: August 24, 2021, 10:32:55 PM 
Started by Northernexpermentsinsound - Last post by Northernexpermentsinsound
If any one has a Tandy /Radio shack / Realistic reverb ready to bend Iíve posted a photo with some details Iíve gathered from various places that I used to bend mine. It certainly sounds better now. Did I miss anything good ? For some reason I canít post photos as attachments which is why Iím having to use imgur.

https://imgur.com/gallery/CGjdp3d

 8 
 on: August 24, 2021, 08:50:40 PM 
Started by phantompowers - Last post by Northernexpermentsinsound
I recently bent my Casio SA-8 using this thread as my guide, so thanks to everyone for sharing all the info.  Most things seem to work, Iím not that keen on the original glitch bend , Iím guessing it wasnít really meant for the SA-8 ? I didnít manage to do the power starve mod either because I couldnít find at pot less than 1k. I did the clock mod with a 6mz crystal but to get it to work I have to put almost spent batteries in and to get the glitch to work I have to put new batteries in! I suppose the power starve would have helped with that. Has anyone swapped out the clock altogether and used a LTC1799 successfully ? I added a couple of trigger inís that are nice to have going while messing about with the feedback mod. 

https://imgur.com/gallery/XDEset8

 9 
 on: August 24, 2021, 03:29:18 PM 
Started by bobbymobetta - Last post by Northernexpermentsinsound
Iíve been doing it for about a year now and when I started this page of tips on the Circuit Benders website was invaluable for pointing about what to buy to set me on my way. I recommend a read of it if you havenít already.

https://www.circuitbenders.co.uk/tips.html

I havenít bent the delay pedal you mentioned but an earlier casualty of mine is a  Mimidi delay pedal. Not sure how I fried it but now the only sounds I can get out of it sound like something from the bbc radiophonic workshop. One day I will put it in a nice enclosure.

I see your message was from a few months ago so youíre probably already sorted for gear. Hope youíre managed to get something out of the pedal.

 10 
 on: August 22, 2021, 06:20:35 PM 
Started by Northernexpermentsinsound - Last post by Northernexpermentsinsound
Iíve got a Zoom 1201 and would really like to do the  clock modification , Iíve had the ltc1799 for a while now and I think Iíve finally plucked up the courage to give it a go.  I think Iíve found all the points but if any one could let me know if they are correct Iíd really appreciate it. Iím also not sure where to solder the output of the ltc1799, does it just go to the where the middle leg of the crystal/ xtal is when I remove it ?

 I couldnít attach any photos to my post so had to stick them up on imgur.

https://imgur.com/gallery/HSmDgx1

https://imgur.com/gallery/G87AgfN

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